tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76034636247782105882024-02-02T08:29:38.747-08:00niels jalling's miniaturesA little about my miniatures.nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.comBlogger61125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-56508224115745430732015-05-27T14:25:00.000-07:002015-05-27T14:25:08.726-07:00My first roomboxHere is the result of the day in the workshop.<br />
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More photos later.<br />
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Have fun (I do :-)<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-16940446298148845632015-05-25T03:01:00.000-07:002015-05-25T03:01:18.093-07:00More print and paint<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Alone at home :-) Lots of time to spend in the workshop.<br />
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When writing this post the printer is printig some windows and doors and when that print is finished a fireplace is prepared. Especially I look forward to see if the windows will print properly. (Two hours from now)<br />
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Paint used is Vallejo Model Color. The very first paintjob was done with Humbrol Acrylic. The Vallejo paint is far the best.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
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<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-55241807694583502702015-05-21T05:42:00.002-07:002015-05-21T05:42:16.869-07:00A small paintjobI have just tried to paint one of the small chairs.<br />
Paint is not what I like most but learned a few things about painting small. The paint should be thinned very much for example. And stereo vision is also a good thing. The painting was done looking through a one-eyed watchmakers loupe.<br />
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Painted</div>
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The next set of chairs will be printed on small pillars for easy removal from the baseplate. </div>
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I have plans and drawings for furniture to be used in a small roombox. The coming weekend is dedicated to small prints.</div>
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Have fun</div>
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Niels</div>
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PS: Photo was taken with a smartphone and the watchmakers loupe.</div>
nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-44963972998631610562015-05-17T13:58:00.001-07:002015-05-17T13:58:37.295-07:00First printAt last. The printer is finished and the first print is made.<br />
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The coin is a 1-euro</div>
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And the finished printer is here. </div>
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Next is to learn about all the parameters of the slicing and control software. </div>
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Have fun</div>
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Niels</div>
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nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-58969116252221709642015-04-21T01:47:00.002-07:002015-04-21T01:48:19.969-07:00Making thumb screws and progress.The required chemicals has arrived.<br />
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Right two bottles is silicone for the VAT-bottom and the right bottle is the light sensitive resin to make models from.<br />
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Chemicals</div>
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The VAT was coated today. Now it has to cure for 48hours on a flat surface. If everything goes straight I can try first printing at the end of the week :-)<br />
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Coated VAT, Hard to see but the bottom has a very thin layer of silicone.</div>
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For holding the VAT to the sliding table I was in need for two thumbscrews. The local hardware store didn't have any in the right size! What to do then?<br />
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Simple design was done in Sketchup and then 3D-printed.<br />
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Thumbscrew </div>
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And the result:<br />
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Thumbscrew</div>
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The lower case is finished and the projector mounted on a baseplate. The projector will be moved up and down depending on some of the printing parameters. Position will be locked by placing dowels in the rails. A screw for moving was considered, maybe in the next version</div>
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Status</div>
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For testing measurements I made the build platform from MDF a cheap material to use for testing how all the parts fit together. A new made of plexiglas is on the workbench ready to replace the MDF-version. </div>
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What remains now? The easy part, namely wiring the electronics, configuration of software and testing operation without photosensitive resin.</div>
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Yesterday a new garden door came and the carpenter will mount tomorrow.<br />
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New door</div>
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This is the old garden-door. Hopefully the new door will bring a little more light into our dining room.<br />
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Old door</div>
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Have fun </div>
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Niels</div>
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<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-84228956560988201412015-04-08T03:59:00.000-07:002015-04-08T03:59:28.577-07:00SLA printer progressA little progress on the SLA 3d-printer. I didn't get much time in the workshop during the Easterholidays :-)<br />
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First was testing the slide mechanism. Since this photo wast taken I replaced the wooden rails with rails made from plastic because of lower friction.<br />
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Test of slidemechanism</div>
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Then the upper case was assembled and rails for z-movement (up-down) mounted.</div>
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Top case</div>
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To get measurements for the lower case that contains the projector a mockup was setup on the dining table.</div>
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TestMockup</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVeLSaKJSXkyA77HFgj-UzEXAcQdUvjW1H1FAI_-WCYnUExHUvXmaLKCLL4vWE-qQmtRaYl2JDIEqBqLxlOODY6CVMaH3EMlBX_DIlij0WP2F0sCUhF6n1DJDYVF3qTwx5t3XWaTrXkBU6/s1600/projectormockup2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVeLSaKJSXkyA77HFgj-UzEXAcQdUvjW1H1FAI_-WCYnUExHUvXmaLKCLL4vWE-qQmtRaYl2JDIEqBqLxlOODY6CVMaH3EMlBX_DIlij0WP2F0sCUhF6n1DJDYVF3qTwx5t3XWaTrXkBU6/s1600/projectormockup2.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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From other side</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
In normal use of the projector is meant for projecting a large image on a wall or screen and that gives a too large image so something must be done. Either modify the projector so it can focus at the close distance that requires opening the projector and removing stops in the lens. I didn't like to do that. So instead I chose to try using my set of close-up lenses.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEBxWaswe0Usy4wXd1IlDIdGGE8vRK9klYN2yL0ldokQnIWzol_FPLdScFuqnO8VIViB6XmZWYHJxrlJcJ06aeHDKX2qsCx_IyfuKH4u6ulxBScoGPq8xnkYlvAWFpydoYWPsz3V8L4zOX/s1600/closeuplens.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEBxWaswe0Usy4wXd1IlDIdGGE8vRK9klYN2yL0ldokQnIWzol_FPLdScFuqnO8VIViB6XmZWYHJxrlJcJ06aeHDKX2qsCx_IyfuKH4u6ulxBScoGPq8xnkYlvAWFpydoYWPsz3V8L4zOX/s1600/closeuplens.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Close-up lens</div>
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An (cheap) adapter between the internal thread of the projector lens and the external thread of the close-up lenses is on the way from Ebay. The blue masking tape was just to hold the lens for test.<br />
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Back to the drawing board designing the lower box.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
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<br /></div>
nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-75806805690438284412015-03-31T08:34:00.003-07:002015-03-31T08:34:23.781-07:00New 3D printing journeyTechnique fascinates me :-) I was unsure if I should make a new blog about this project but then decided to keep this one because the end-product will be miniatures.<br />
<br />
During the last years I have made a few 3D-printers. Some better than others but I learned a lot.<br />
<br />
The last 3d-printer was made during november 2014. It was an Ultimaker classic and actually that printer was better than all the other designs I previously had built. It is reliable. It make nice prints. Why didn't I make the Ultimaker from the beginning? Well, because my cnc was too small for cutting the panels. After having made a few modifications to the cnc it was possible to cut the ultimaker panels..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkM0626EXDeazsYAGH-j3AoeDtVuM-24t9QXFU6vJeWmB82pu8pyAeH1on3cHXlL0qpG285kq8qrbEtg9gBZcgFkxelOubo5KNB_iHphyAVJtrh-idZvHFAQFbHqFdkwkhTIu9H1Di-vG/s1600/Ultimaker.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkM0626EXDeazsYAGH-j3AoeDtVuM-24t9QXFU6vJeWmB82pu8pyAeH1on3cHXlL0qpG285kq8qrbEtg9gBZcgFkxelOubo5KNB_iHphyAVJtrh-idZvHFAQFbHqFdkwkhTIu9H1Di-vG/s1600/Ultimaker.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ultimaker</div>
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When I need a print I just power up the printer and start printing. I have not used the printer for making miniatures, but for making parts for other projects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuu0ZliGi6J13VM4U6d-zJd02yI6jNx_p7W2qVKOgf5PPFbDG2698VYSRQ7h8QAy5Tyk5jjwi_KvfJJbiVjPrlduT8tFQ7SAnFt8Sf8xbVUDh2IOfgoA4-awRP1ZBwK0X27E41fN4voobu/s1600/some-parts.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuu0ZliGi6J13VM4U6d-zJd02yI6jNx_p7W2qVKOgf5PPFbDG2698VYSRQ7h8QAy5Tyk5jjwi_KvfJJbiVjPrlduT8tFQ7SAnFt8Sf8xbVUDh2IOfgoA4-awRP1ZBwK0X27E41fN4voobu/s1600/some-parts.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Printed parts</div>
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Well, I tried once printing a 1:24 Queen Anne chair but as the photo show the finish is not good enough for miniatures (as expected). Looking forward to print the same chair in scale 1:144.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYtO0Fl3NBrUQyVZ0O565tw4C-UxfNtPRSKtIM8SW09a8lN5G0kt6aoI08SFpvG4FZ-gnY7VNCfWeM-MpBZwjv2d0KvrDG0YspsUAkxTPkRW27jg0qounuwZIn7XGmmv77zyUBEY9o6d1/s1600/queenanne.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYtO0Fl3NBrUQyVZ0O565tw4C-UxfNtPRSKtIM8SW09a8lN5G0kt6aoI08SFpvG4FZ-gnY7VNCfWeM-MpBZwjv2d0KvrDG0YspsUAkxTPkRW27jg0qounuwZIn7XGmmv77zyUBEY9o6d1/s1600/queenanne.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
So, What next? Answer is SLA (Stereo Lithography Apparatus)<br />
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During the recent years the materials for SLA has been better and cheaper and easier to get.<br />
One of the SLA techniques is based on a liquid resin that cures (hardens) when illuminated by ultraviolet (UV) light. The UV-light can be from a special lowpower laser or from a standard homebio projector.<br />
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The SLA printer then works as follows.<br />
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The 3d-drawing is sliced in very thin layers (f.ex. 0.01mm) Every single layer is then projected on a thin layer of resin. When the resin is cured the printer moves 0.01mm up and the next layer is illuminated and cured. and so on...<br />
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I found a cheap used projector with few hours on the lamp.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADLg-Gel6H5E0iM_AJqw3m_0EIObOqFg-cUkCjOa_85TuDW5qEVvcFFtv-e9Ib8RJzLxAQZAeoA3Z8MACcJVcueBq9NnktkKOmzJ4PJkY0ChdStZVMctP-qUh63ZDhxrthiWA0qhpUmUg/s1600/Projektor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADLg-Gel6H5E0iM_AJqw3m_0EIObOqFg-cUkCjOa_85TuDW5qEVvcFFtv-e9Ib8RJzLxAQZAeoA3Z8MACcJVcueBq9NnktkKOmzJ4PJkY0ChdStZVMctP-qUh63ZDhxrthiWA0qhpUmUg/s1600/Projektor.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Projektor</div>
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Next was to decide how to build the printer. A few hours browsing the net I decided to build something like the B9Creator. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8m2gzty-IzSdyRv6hBnAAQF7JVlIHLEpMZEYEHKUDLNexlqeY8Y41-k_W1zdO7rLsgNb_i25mPRLj_eC6dDk4zM34ghMNXIDn0eQvkw5OxjNGojDry5XYdiluKKr082Z5bYQWoXgkyrhe/s1600/b9creator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8m2gzty-IzSdyRv6hBnAAQF7JVlIHLEpMZEYEHKUDLNexlqeY8Y41-k_W1zdO7rLsgNb_i25mPRLj_eC6dDk4zM34ghMNXIDn0eQvkw5OxjNGojDry5XYdiluKKr082Z5bYQWoXgkyrhe/s1600/b9creator.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://b9creator.com/" target="_blank">B9Creator</a></div>
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My design is mostly based on materials I have in my junkbox except for the 6mm birch-plywood.<br />
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I was happy with the Ultimaker way of assembling sheets of plywood so based on the open source drawings and plans for the B9Creator I made drawings to be cut on my CNC-machine.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Cad drawings. Layers is a good thing.</div>
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Some of the panels are split in two because the cnc is too small :-)</div>
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Dry assembly of the panels. </div>
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An essential part of the printer is called the VAT (I don't know what it stands for but it's not Value Added Tax) The VAT contains the uncured resin.<br />
The plate that holds the object(s) to be printed is lowered into the resin leaving a small cavity between the VAT-bottom and the buildplate (0.01mm high). When the resin is cured the VAT slides away to release the object from the VAT-bottom. The VAT-bottom is covered with a silicone layer that prevents the cured resin to stick to the bottom, The sliding action is a way to overcome the adhesion between the build and the bottom.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Sliding VAT with guides. </div>
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Next is to assemble the panels and make bottom half where projector will be mounted. Again I wan't a bigger cnc...<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
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<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-21116749650230615192014-10-27T14:14:00.001-07:002014-10-27T14:14:09.010-07:00Just a few links<br />
<a href="http://njmodelhobby.dk/" target="_blank">N.J.Model&hobby</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/njmodelhobby" target="_blank">My facebook</a><br />
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I'll soon write a little about my current projects.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-84531625170973594872013-08-17T14:59:00.000-07:002013-08-17T14:59:27.730-07:00Shop tour<div style="text-align: center;">
A little tour of my nearly finished shop.</div>
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First view when entering from the street</div>
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Northeast</div>
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Northwest </div>
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A shelf for woodsheet and wood strips is planned in the corner where the ladder can be seen</div>
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Southeast, seen from top of the stairs.</div>
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And southwest, again from top of the stairs.<br />
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Then the backroom. I haven't done much there yet.<br />
looking north.<br />
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Looking east.<br />
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South<br />
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West. Place for a small fridge and the <span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">indispensable</span></span> coffemachine. <br />
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And at last the small room to be alone in.<br />
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Small and big boxes is becinning to arrive.<br />
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Grand opening of the shop will be on 30.august 2013 at noon.<br />
You are very welcome to join.<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Have fun</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Niels</div>
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nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-55475242329166525662013-07-19T12:48:00.002-07:002013-07-19T12:48:46.229-07:00A little technique and a shop signI decided to make my shop sign from painted plywood. The sign has to be finished as one of the first things to do in the shop because the danish equivalet to "Tour de France" called <a href="http://www.postdanmarkrundt.dk/">"Post Danmark Rundt"</a> passes on the way to the finish line so a lot of people will come and see the bikes (and hopefully my shop :-)<br />
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First photoshop layout<br />
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On the sidepanels I will place two large QR-codes one pointing to my website and another pointing to facebook. <br />
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I don't have a cnc that big so handcutting with a scrollsaw is the way to go. For transferring the letters to the plywood I learned this technique from one of the scrollsawers-blogs. First I draw outline of the letter with my cad-program and then print the drawing on a laserprinter. The drawing is then placed with the printed side facing the plywood. Then the paper is soaked with zylene and rubbed with a soft cloth. A photocopied drawing can be used too.<br />
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The drawing can be seen through the paper. <br />
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And pattern ready for scrool-sawing. The zylene evaporate without any signs on the wood.<br />
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I have also used this technique for miniatures for both sawing and carving. Much easier than using transferpaper.<br />
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After a few hours scroll-sawing here is the result. Ignore the letters isn't on a straight line :-)<br />
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The dots after N and J should be a little larger. Next is a paint job.<br />
<br />
And a first floor view of our garden. In the background is another real size project I have promised to finish this week-end. Removing old paint from a door and then repaint and giving some oil to the garden chairs <br />
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Have a nice week-end<br />
Niels<br />
nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-18974443699144240632013-07-14T10:41:00.000-07:002013-07-14T10:41:13.723-07:00New journey!I have started a new journey<br />
<br />
In the end of august I will open a brick&mortar shop: N.J.Model&Hobby.<br />
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The photo has undergone a little photoshopping. Today the shop sells knitting yarn and fabric.<br />
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I'll try to sell nearly everything for making doll's houses. Woods, tools, tapestry, furniture, glue, paint, etc....<br />
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Progress of the shop will be published on Facebook. I'm told that is the way to spread the words :-) <br />
Here is the link to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/NJModelHobby/517394981649768">N.J.Model&Hobby</a> on facebook. Postings on facebook will be in danish only but google translate may be a little helper.<br />
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If you wan't to see the surroundings here is a <a href="https://www.google.dk/maps?q=Smallegade+25,+Frederiksberg&hl=da&ll=55.679026,12.528522&spn=0.003968,0.010568&sll=55.679023,12.528640&layer=c&cbp=13,45.7,,0,-4.73&cbll=55.679026,12.528522&hnear=Smallegade+25,+2000+Frederiksberg&t=m&panoid=J3hIOMkq79dkDs0zdHuQiQ&z=17">link</a> to google streetview.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-83925639473386958722013-04-16T04:51:00.000-07:002013-04-16T04:51:04.847-07:00Spring is coming, time to change horses...Well, long time since last time I wrote something here...<br />
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As headline says spring is coming after a long and cold winter.<br />
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I look forward every spring to see those flowers in our garden. They are Anemone nemorosa normally found in the woods but a few has decided to grow in our garden. Yesterday I saw the first <span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">bumblebee</span>s and a <span class="hps">butterfly</span></span><br />
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The 3D-printing story has ended. The <span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">technology</span> <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">mature enough</span> <span class="hps">yet, maybe in 3 to 5 years.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">I know you can buy some small pieces of 3D-printed furniture but the quality is far behind the standards I'm looking for. So all my 3D stuff is dismantled and boxed away. It has been fun and I have learned a lot.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span>
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">What to look forward to? Well here is a little </span></span><span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">preview of my current just for fun project.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span>
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<object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/_ZiBMvqRT3U/0.jpg"><param name="movie" value="http://youtube.googleapis.com/v/_ZiBMvqRT3U&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://youtube.googleapis.com/v/_ZiBMvqRT3U&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span>
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The steel-balls is 2mm in diameter and the display case is h=32mm, w=39mm and d=32mm. If we translate from 1/12scale to real size that gives hwd=38cm,47cm,38cm.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span>
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">More to come later.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span>
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Have fun</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Niels</span></span><br />
<br />
nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-37380722679517459732012-12-06T08:07:00.000-08:002012-12-06T08:07:09.709-08:00Merry Christmas3D-printing is fun and takes a lot of time:-)<br />
<br />
Here is my latest print plus a little painting afterwards<br />
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Same on table for a better view.<br />
The three kings are bringing gifts to new born child. Of course they also have their Camel with them.<br />
And of course the Christmas Crib with the new born child and his parents.<br />
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And a Google Sketchup screendump<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
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PS: I am not the designer of the set. I found it on http://www.thingiverse.com a site with lots of ideas of what can be made with a 3D.printer.nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-72431687288828567752012-10-13T02:11:00.000-07:002012-10-13T02:11:22.899-07:00The new blackEver since I heard about 3D-printing many years ago it has been in my mind that someday I would join the wave.<br />
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Now it is time for exploring the posibillities of 3D-printing.<br />
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I have spent a few hours on the net studying several designs but most of them fails because they are build using 3d-printed components. Chicken and egg problem.<br />
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Yes I could go to Ebay and buy a kit but ...<br />
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Then I found this Mendel90 design that uses mdf for the basic structure plus (again) lots of 3D-printed plastic parts.By studying the design I soon found out that all the parts can easily be replaced by either wood- or metal-parts.<br />
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<br />Basically a 3D-printer is a glue-gun that can be moved in three dimensions so the first challenge is to build a structure for that. The same challenges as for my CNC-machines stable structures with precise movements of a tool..<br />
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Here is the very first mockup for my first 3D-printer. A simple T-shabe from two sheets of plywood.<br />
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In front of the vertical sheet is some of the parts I will use for the vertical movement of the glue-gun, extruder in 3D-language. <br />
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The plywood-sheets is held together with this ingenious "Ikea" screw and nut.<br />
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In german the bolt and nut is called "Quermutterbolzen und Rundmuttern". It took me quite a while to find out :-) <br />
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Can it be used for miniatures? Maybe.....<br />
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3D-printed Queen Anne Chairs in 1:48 scale.<br />
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More to come.<br />
/Niels<br />
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<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-74740435011737177672012-10-03T04:11:00.001-07:002012-10-03T04:11:53.555-07:00Hinges (Nightmare)It is hard to get small hinges in the right size or shape. When I started making miniatures I bought a lot of hinges from several sources because then I just could go to my hinges drawer and select the right hinge for the piece I was working on. Reality is another story :-)<br />
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Below is a mockup to see how the hinge fit in the current project. To the right is the smallest hinge I had in my stock and I didn't like it. The hinge is too large.<br />
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So I had to make my own. First I draw the hinge parts in the right dimensions and then cut the parts from a piece of 0.1mm brass-sheet using my cnc. That was an expensive experience because I broke a milling-cutter in the first try. But I made a hinge in the right size.<br />
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The hinges was then made using the photo etch technique. Here comes the nightmare :-) <br />
The first sheet I etched from the same 0.1mm brass sheet had parts for 96 hinges but after etching and trying to assemble the first hinge I discovered that the brass was too thin. When opening and closing the hinge it just fall apart. Then I tried etching 0.2mm brass using the same layout. <br />
Doubling the thichness to etch also doubles the etching time and that gives problems with socalled underetching and I haven't thougt about that. So back to the drawing board and after a few more trial and errors I managed to make this sheet of hinge parts.<br />
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For assembling the hinges I made this needle nose pliers. It is ground from a cheap fleamarket find (don't take the best from the toolbox). <br />
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5 hinges before next step</div>
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To ensure that the pin stays in place I decided to solder the pin in place. <br />
Why not glue? Because glue is hard to control in small spaces and can easily make the hinge unusable.<br />
For soldering I use solderpaste normally used for soldering small electronics. The solderpaste contains flux and pewter and can be applied very acurately in small amounts. I got mine from ebay and despite the small container says something about a shelf life of 6 months and cool storage it works well after about two years in a drawer.<br />
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Here is some solderpaste on a bottlecap (diameter 28mm) Half of the paste that the red arrow points to is placed on the hinge.<br />
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The hinge is placed on a heat resistent surface.<br />
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The hinge is heated a few seconds with a heat blower.<br />
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Solderpaste before heating<br />
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Solderpaste after heating. The solder flows nicely into the hinge,<br />
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After the other end of the pin is cut off the hinge is ready for use.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
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nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-21604926871649405872012-09-03T01:34:00.001-07:002012-09-03T01:34:40.896-07:00Another powertool modificationFirst I'm so happy using my small tablesaw but because of my small workshop there is no more space on the table!<br />
Solution: Laptoptablesaw :-)<br />
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Another power-tool in the closet I use from time to time is the Proxxon Disc Sander.<br />
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Problem is sometimes the piece needed to be sanded is better handled on the right side of the sanding disc and then because of the rotation of the disc the workpiece is pulled away from the table.<br />
Then it hit me. All the other Proxxon tools I have uses direct current motors (DC-motors). DC-motors is easily reversed. The two wires to the motor should just change place.<br />
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The backcover was unmounted and yes the motor was a DC-motor and better there is lots of space for mounting a switch besides the on/off switch and speed-controller.<br />
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A hole is drilled and the switch is mounted.<br />
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The red and black wires from the circuit-board to the motor is unsoldered and replaced with two new wires that goes to the switch.<br />
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Wiring of the switch<br />
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And then the cover can be remounted on the sander.<br />
<br />
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<br />
In the process I pulled too much in the wires so the speedcontrol broke. So unsoldering the white and black wires is a good idea :-) It doesn't matter how the white and black wires is soldered back to the control.<br />
<br />
<h3>
A little theory: Reversing a DC-motor.</h3>
The switch used is a Double Pole Double Throw
(DPDT) switch.
<br />
<br />
DPDT switches are available in 'toggle' or 'slide' types, as shown in the
picture below. Both types have six connections - three for each pole of the switch.<br />
<br />
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The upper, toggle switch is easiest to mount :-)<br />
<br />
This circuit shows how to connect one DC motor to a DPDT switch.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
At last my Proxxon disc sander with a new miterguide.<br />
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And result of first use.<br />
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But that's another story.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
<br />
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nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-32499557076131074222012-08-24T08:56:00.000-07:002012-08-24T08:56:56.331-07:00Crosscut slide for the small tablesawWell.Sometimes you have to change your mind.<br />
<br />
For years I have ignored the small Proxxon tablesaw. It was too small to use for serious work was my opinion, so it was just stored in the back of the cupboard.<br />
<br />
Well, yesterday I made miterslides for the saw and in short time I cut miters for six frames! Usually when I make special moldings I make at least twice the length to be sure I have enough for replacing errors. Yesterday I sat back with the whole second length of molding.<br />
<br />
So todys project is to make a few more accessories for the tablesaw.<br />
<br />
Crosscut slide:<br />
Simple! Two rails glued to the back of a piece of 1mm aeroplane plywood. When the glue has set the plate is mounted on the tablesaw and the bottom fence glued to the plywood. Of course square to the sawblade. Then the slot is cut. Ready for use. <br />
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<br />
Accurizer<br />
<br />
This is a very clever device that makes very fine adjustments possible. Micromark sells one for the Microlux tablesaw. The Microlux tablesaw is nearly the same as the now discontinued Proxxon FKS/E tablesaw. If you are in the market for a small tablesaw and find a Proxxon FKS/E; Buy it now, because it is better than the new FET in my opinion.<br />
Here is the parts for the accurizer.<br />
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And the accurizer mounted on the tablesaw with the fence close to the sawblade.The accurizer can be mounted anywhere between the sawblade and the right side of the sawtable.<br />
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Loosening the two screws the slider can be moved to the other end so the fence moves about 5mm away from the sawblade.<br />
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<br />
The slider can be locked any place between the two ends <br />
<br />
Have fun<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-19213363878073134592012-08-23T03:07:00.001-07:002012-08-23T03:07:30.863-07:00Miter slidesFor a long time i wished I had a alternative to this miterbox. <br />
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So I dug out the old small Proxxon tablesaw from the cupboard <br />
Then I took the tablesaw apart.<br />
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Because I wanted a groove in the left side of the table too. The groove is a little smaller than the original in the right side but that doesn't matter. <br />
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Assembled the tablesaw again.<br />
And made a fixed 45degree miter slide to fit on the right side.<br />
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And another for the new left groove.<br />
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Ready for cutting nice clean miters on small parts. (width of the strip is 0.75mm)<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsLt4sdxVcRDKZ6TGBre4szuEalJbeA5zb9e8lNmiP1nKsoSIzfjM_1nK6eXHXz-bb5GFW4Rd7ukY9INy63JcV96lghKaOUxBohDeIBkNKUE_tL8jFmnB2SvGOIBGru14gm95dkzefFPf/s1600/P8232612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-63152941245839384162012-08-17T06:06:00.000-07:002012-08-17T06:06:06.688-07:00Door framesMore details about the doors. While studying the photo of the cabinet with open doors it looks like the frame is made from two vertical posts joined by two horizontals, top and bottom. Probably joined by tenon and mortice. The frame is then veneered.<br />
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Best seen in the middle door.<br />
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Here is the parts I made to simulate the original door.<br />
Front view:<br />
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And backview:<br />
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Dry <span id="goog_743302188"></span><span id="goog_743302189"></span>assembly of the middle door.<br />
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/Niels<br />
nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-55694308542190692382012-08-16T03:44:00.001-07:002012-08-16T04:37:55.972-07:00Back to the workshop During the last weeks I haven't spent much time in the workshop. Been around in the city and country.<br />
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<h4>
Sinner is found! </h4>
My tablesaw had a burn mark on the top. Looked like someone had left a burning cigarette on the saw.<br />
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Then the other day when I entered there was a smell of burning wood but no smoke and no fire. Looking around I foind this piece of wood with a burnmark on the tablesaw.<br />
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And above was the sinner. My magnifying lamp.<br />
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So always remember to cover the magnifying glass or turn the lamp away from the window! Actually I don't use it very much.<br />
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<h4>
New (old) computer for the CNC.</h4>
I was tired of rewiring the laptop every time I wanted to use my small cnc-machine. So I decided to use our old TV-computer as a dedicated cnc-computer instead of standing in a corner waiting to be old enough for the dump.<br />
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The computer is placed on the top of the cabinet and an old monitor was mounted on the wall. Time will show if the computer can stand the heat up there. <br />
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<h4>
Aspire</h4>
In the process of investigating cnc-software i borrowed a licence for a very interesting piece of software Vectric Aspire. With Aspire it was very easy to make moldings.<br />
The molding is drawn the cad program, in my case Qcad.<br />
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Then imported into Aspire.<br />
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And with a few clicks with the mouse the toolpath for the molding is generated ready to be cut in the cnc.<br />
I cut one and began cutting miters when it hit me: W"hy cut those miters by hand?" The machine can do that and more precise than with the handsaw and old miterbox. So back to the drawingboard (cad-program).<br />
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And shortly after this was produced. The frame for one of the carved doors.<br />
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A little cleaning up.<br />
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And a little glue.<br />
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Cutting the moldings isn't fast. On my little cnc this small molding takes about 45minutes.<br />
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The frames placed on a printout. <br />
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Have fun<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-82078729385870323332012-07-20T14:52:00.001-07:002012-07-20T14:52:37.949-07:00Deja-vuOne year ago (2-jul-2011)<br />
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Yesterday (19-jul-2012)<br />
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Luckily the rain stopped soon after the photo was taken.<br />
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Playing a little with depth of field<br />
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Three in one. I have just touched the surface with some very fine steel-wool and then applied a single coat of cellulose laquer (aeroplane dope).<br />
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/Niels<br />
<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-91161316128490546902012-07-18T13:34:00.002-07:002012-07-18T13:38:26.727-07:00A few hours laterA few months ago I dropped a project of several reasons. Now I will try that project again but first the carvings on the doors should look right!<br />
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Below is the first try. Looks good except for the center flower. Size is approximately 14mm by 14mm.<br />
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Light form snother angle: <br />
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The original is a very low detailed photo taken from an auction site so I can't make better photos.<br />
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Original cut out from a photo. Size is 108*114pixels.I haven't found an easy method for transforming a photo to cnc-code. Some programs can do that but they requires more detailed (= more pixels) photos.<br />
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Instead I made this low resolution interpretation of the carving. This drawing is then processed with a program called MeshCam-Art. The colours in the drawing representd the depth of the cutting.<br />
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Meshcam can calculate the time to be used by the cnc-machine. It told me that runtime would be about half an hour. So I just transferred the code to he milling machine. Half an hour later the machine was still running and only one third was cut :-) Then I inspected the code. Meshcam had made 1500000lines of code! The total runtime was 4.5hours.<br />
Learningcurve for those cad/cam programs is quite steep.<br />
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Here is another doorfront for the project. Cutting time was less than one hour so I have learned a little :-)<br />
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The milling cutter I use is a 0.1mm 10degree V-cutter.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-5513072854526959452012-06-23T11:57:00.002-07:002012-06-23T12:46:29.069-07:00Stepwise refinements<br />
In the freetime at the GuildSchool I traced the photo of the chest from the online catalogue. It was a quick and dirty trace just to show my class mates how to transfer a photo to be used in a cnc-tool. Outer frame is 42mm * 17mm half size of the chest I carved at the GuildSghool.<br />
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Here is the first cutout in cherry. Intention at this point was to make the basic and boring cutout using cnc and then add the finer details using handtools. <br />
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And in a piece of pear. Still problems with the stems.<br />
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Then I retraced the original photo. This is done by drawing small line segments following the contours in the photo.<br />
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A little better:<br />
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Adjusting some of the cutting parameters for the cnc-machine. Now the pearwood grain gives trouble so back to cherry.<br />
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Before I made the last cutting I added more details!<br />
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Monday I will try staining the piece. I don't have the right colours right now.<br />
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Have done a little touchup using handtools :-)<br />
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Have fun<br />
Nielsnielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-73304093335313674612012-06-21T09:13:00.002-07:002012-06-21T09:13:49.945-07:00No dustWell, I spent three days cleaning up my old workshop. One corner a day. So one corner left :-) I also dismanthed the large mdf cnc-machine. It took up too much space and I haven't used for about a year and I wasn't really satisfied about the performance.<br />
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I had decided to wait trying the new thickness sander until the workshop was in better shape. Today I couldn't resist any longer.<br />
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For dust collection I use an wacuum cleaner intended for removing ash from a stove. It doesn't have a bag inside.They come in two styles here in DK. One with a motor and one without to be used in front of an ordinary wacuum cleaner.<br />
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Then several years go I got a smart Proxxon device. When the sander is turned on the wacuum cleaner starts and when the sander is turned off the wacuum cleaner stops after 5 seconds. I looked through the new Proxxon catalogue and couldn't find the device. Instead they sells a wacuum-cleaner with same functionalty. I like the idea of a separate device better.<br />
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How is the sander?<br />
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Very good! Off course a sander is for removing wood in small increments. But for delicate woods with grain in all directions it is the only way to go. And for sizes less than 1.6mm which id the minimum for the Thicknesser DH40.<br />
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And at last todays photo. I found this little Chevrolet Spark LS in an american modelcar shop. U<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">nfortunately</span> <span class="hps">they didn't have it in black like ours. This blue one was parked in front of our neighbours house for a few hours. I had to play a little.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizui-fHWXJRbA2LWvBwMAxY8slK3zYCduwI9fmeWgkpiEas8SCzHMt45KISHoB_I3vlWGnJC9HsK0vg_KugkdoUDe3-jSz4iJc_iNAzU2mL0H6YcSdp5HheNQRI4v1bsCgSsdP2a3TXzC2/s1600/P6202348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizui-fHWXJRbA2LWvBwMAxY8slK3zYCduwI9fmeWgkpiEas8SCzHMt45KISHoB_I3vlWGnJC9HsK0vg_KugkdoUDe3-jSz4iJc_iNAzU2mL0H6YcSdp5HheNQRI4v1bsCgSsdP2a3TXzC2/s320/P6202348.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> The model is 1/24 scale.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Have fun</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Niels</span></span><br />
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<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603463624778210588.post-65164017690290402312012-06-18T04:51:00.000-07:002012-06-18T04:51:01.456-07:00A great week is goneAfter a nice week at the IGMA Guild School in Castine I'm back home.<br />
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We had a nice tour from Castine to Boston. The most fascinating sight on the tour was those creatures.<br />
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Atlantic Horseshoe Crabs. I had never seen them in real before.<br />
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One was lying on the shore so after having taken a photo I gently moved her or him around and she/he crawled into the water. I wasn't sure about the tail was dangerous like an scorpion. Later I found out it wasn't :-)<br />
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Well, back home I wen't to the garden for removing some of the weeds. When doing that I heard the sound of <span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">buzzing</span> <span class="hps">bees. Has my neighbour got </span></span><span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"></span><span class="hps">a beehive ?</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br />No. It was this plant that was filled with bees. (I don't know the name.)</span></span><br />
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<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">There was hundreds.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Lessons learned at the GuildSchool: Carving a lot. I took both of the classes given by Ann High. She was a very good teacher so we learned a lot.</span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">24 hour class: </span></span>16th Century Carved Chest (with a little extras :-)<br />
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<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">12 hour class: </span></span>16th Century Boarded Stool with Pierced Tracery<br />
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And a little extra just for fun<br />
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Next is to try out the new tool I brought home. A Jim Byrnes drum sander.<br />
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I made a drum sander many years ago but it has two big faults. The sandpaper is glued to the drum so changing isn't easy and it doesn't have an easy way to collect the dust so sanding is a mess. So this new thickness sander is a nice supplement to my Proxxon Thicknesser for preparing wood.<br />
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Have fun<br />
Niels<br />
<br />PS: A photo trick. I use a black granite tile to get the mirror effect.<br />
<br />nielshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06216932512285005974noreply@blogger.com1