Spend part of the evening etching escuteons for the highboy.
Result looks good but I forgot to take care of the height of the smallest drawers.
On the high drawers it looks good.
Closeup
And closeup of small drawer.
The escuteons will be used for drawerhandles and keyholes but I will trim off the "roof" on all of them before mounting. Again think twice.
The closeup photos was taken with this setup.
My Pen-Epl2 with adapter from micro-four-thirds to fou-thirds mount plus a 25mm extension tube and at last an Olympus 14-45mm lens. The extension tube makes it possible to take macro or close-up photos with a standard lens.
/Niels
Monday, March 26, 2012
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Kronborg Castle
A while ago I worked for a company that have a "Clean Desk" policy.
Today a little tour in the good weather to Kronborg Castle.
Several pieces of interesting furniture but most of them too big to replicate for the small dolls house rooms.
This cabinet has some very interesting veneering. The only miniaturist I have seen doing the same type was the late master Barry Hipwell.
Detail
When home again I cut the veneer for the drawerfronts. Yesterday I glued the two book-matching pieces of veneer and sanded down to 0.45mm with a thickness sander.
Glueing veneer to draverfront. The fronts is made from 0.4mm plywood so warping wil hopefully not be a problem.
The two top and bottom centerdrawers will be made later.
This evening the highboy looks like this.
/Niels
Today a little tour in the good weather to Kronborg Castle.
Several pieces of interesting furniture but most of them too big to replicate for the small dolls house rooms.
This cabinet has some very interesting veneering. The only miniaturist I have seen doing the same type was the late master Barry Hipwell.
Detail
When home again I cut the veneer for the drawerfronts. Yesterday I glued the two book-matching pieces of veneer and sanded down to 0.45mm with a thickness sander.
Glueing veneer to draverfront. The fronts is made from 0.4mm plywood so warping wil hopefully not be a problem.
The two top and bottom centerdrawers will be made later.
This evening the highboy looks like this.
/Niels
Thursday, March 22, 2012
Measure once, Cut twice
I had to redo the lower part of the 1/24 highboy because the depth of both upper and lower was nearly the same.
There isn't space for the lower molding.
Wrong.
New
The lower part could be reused in another project at a later time (or scratched)
Have fun. And measure twice before cutting!
/Niels
There isn't space for the lower molding.
Wrong.
New
The lower part could be reused in another project at a later time (or scratched)
Have fun. And measure twice before cutting!
/Niels
Monday, March 19, 2012
1/24 is BIG (2)
Parts for one of the drawers.
Assembled drawer
From the bottomSidepanels with legs.
Testfit of drawers in lower part
From another angle
Testfit of upper drawers
1/24 is big. I can work without magnification most of the time.
Have fun
Niels
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
1/24 is BIG
Next few weeks will be very busy. Not very much writing maybe progress photos.
Drawers for highboy in 1/24 scale. Fronts is 0.4mm plywood because then I kave more than 3 layers of wood and therefore less problems with warping when applying veneer.
Legs compared.
Have fun
Niels
Hint: Read instructions carefully and in good time. I just discovered that current projects does not fit in my current category. Some of you may guess why :-)
Drawers for highboy in 1/24 scale. Fronts is 0.4mm plywood because then I kave more than 3 layers of wood and therefore less problems with warping when applying veneer.
Legs compared.
Have fun
Niels
Hint: Read instructions carefully and in good time. I just discovered that current projects does not fit in my current category. Some of you may guess why :-)
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Top molding
The solution for the topmolding was to make 17 parallel cuts in different depths with a 0.1mm 10degree V-cutter.
I have applied a single coat of laquer because then it is easier to justify the result.
Another solution could have been using different cutters as with the original but my smallest round nose cutter is 1mm in diameter and the molding is 1.6mm across.
Below is the cutting steps for the original molding.
Screenshot of cad-program with a lot of parallel lines. Every line is placed in its own layer in the drawing because they will be cut in different depths. The drawing has been rotated to match major grain direction of the wood that later will be cut out.
And screenshot of molding profile.
The red line is the molding profile made by tracing a scan of the original drawing and then resized down to 1:48 scale, the yellow is the parallels and the blue represents the v-cutter.
From the drawing the cutting depths is measured and later used in another program that generates the codes for the cnc-machine.
Photo of V-cutter.
The tip is 0.1mm and the V-angle is 10-degrees.
Pro: V-cutters are cheap. (A 0.1mm standard cutter costs 40-80USD and breaks when you think about using them.)
Cons: The V-shape of the cut.
Have fun
Niels
I have applied a single coat of laquer because then it is easier to justify the result.
Another solution could have been using different cutters as with the original but my smallest round nose cutter is 1mm in diameter and the molding is 1.6mm across.
Below is the cutting steps for the original molding.
Screenshot of cad-program with a lot of parallel lines. Every line is placed in its own layer in the drawing because they will be cut in different depths. The drawing has been rotated to match major grain direction of the wood that later will be cut out.
And screenshot of molding profile.
The red line is the molding profile made by tracing a scan of the original drawing and then resized down to 1:48 scale, the yellow is the parallels and the blue represents the v-cutter.
From the drawing the cutting depths is measured and later used in another program that generates the codes for the cnc-machine.
Photo of V-cutter.
The tip is 0.1mm and the V-angle is 10-degrees.
Pro: V-cutters are cheap. (A 0.1mm standard cutter costs 40-80USD and breaks when you think about using them.)
Cons: The V-shape of the cut.
Have fun
Niels
Saturday, March 3, 2012
Give up? Start all over? Lower ambitions!
Friday afternoon I was in a bad mood. I didn't feel good with the aprons on the lower case.
The aprons didn't look as I wanted! They should fit behind the knee of the legs like this photo shows.
After a break. Walk to the libary etc.. I decided to continue a little less amditious.
This is how the lower part looks today. (The holes in the back is my invention. With a small pushstick you can push the drawers out from the carcas. Handles in the will be too small.)
I dropped to put aprons on the sides, too.
The upper part looks like this just now.
I spend the evening figuring out how to make the curved moldings. Tomorrow will show.
Spring is coming.
Have more fun
Niels
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